Universal Microwave Door Switch
✅Normally Open Switch:
Model Number: KW3A-16.
Material: High temperature resistant engineering plastics.
Temperature Resistance: 105℃.
Color: Grey.
Current: 16A.
Voltage: 125V / 250V.
Mechanical Life: 5E4 (50000 times).
Job characteristics:After pressing the switch button, the internal contact is closed and the switch is in on state.
Shell Dimensions: 1.09″ x 0.63″x 0.41″(27.8 x 15.9 x 10.3 mm).
Shape features:The switch button is black.
✅Normally Closed Switch:
Model Number: KW3A-16.
Material: High temperature resistant engineering plastics.
Temperature Resistance: 105℃.
Color: Grey.
Current: 16A.
Voltage: 125V / 250V.
Mechanical Life: 5E4 (50000 times).
Job characteristics:After pressing the switch button, the internal contacts are separated and the switch is disconnected.
Shell Dimensions: 1.09″ x 0.63″x 0.41″(27.8 x 15.9 x 10.3 mm).
Shape features:The switch button is red.
Package Includes: 2x Normally Open Switch 1x Normally Closed Switch
- KW3A Microwave Oven Door Interloc Switch
- Current:16A;Voltage:125/250AVC.
- Normally Open:After pressing the switch button, the internal contact is closed and the switch is in on state.
- Normally Closed:After pressing the switch button, the internal contacts are separated and the switch is disconnected.
- Material: Engineering plastics;Color: Grey;Contact:Silver contact

































Rick Schneider –
I have no idea why I am rating the sheerness and warmth of these electronic microwave switches, but since everything else was 5 stars, here’s these too.The microwave threw the breaker and refused to cook my Ramen. Utilizing the my enhanced investigative skills, I located and viewed several YouTube videos related to this issue. Long and short of it, I have learned that there are three (3!) switches in the door latch area of my (mass produced under many different brands) built-in microwave/stove fan. I was further able to determine that I only needed to replace the middle switch (the one that is wired opposite of the other two) in order to resume my “Ramenicity.”When I went searching for said switch, I found that this one little switch retails for $23+. I was shocked. Then I turned to Amazon, the purveyor of all that is available, occasionally within two days. Lo and behold, I found this package with all three switches (the bad one that had to be replaced, plus the two that were in great working order) and all three of them are available for less than half of the price of the one switch!There was a moment of great angst as I pondered whether to buy three switches from a lesser known supplier instead of one switch from a parts house.Knowing from my prior work in the auto parts industry that almost all wiring and switches for your cars and trucks come from the same place and have the (brand)names applied after manufacture, I decided to gamble on it. Receiving the three switches, I returned to the YouTube and looked for videos on the actual procedure. Lo and behold, I found one!Suffice it to say the operation went off without a hitch, and the microwave works again. I did replace all three switches since I had all three replacements, on the off chance that one of the others might be close to going out. (And honestly, what was I going to do with those switches anyway?)Gentlemen, and ladies, this is a simple procedure that anyone can do. The videos are explicit, and the instructions simple. These switches so far have been outstanding! I cannot recommend them enough in order for you to get your Ramenicity back like I did.
gluedr –
If your microwave inside fan and light remain on when door is open or closed and nothing is cooking, this is the fix! It’s usually from what I read just the top door switch, but it is so cheap to replace all 3 switches and especially since it takes some time to take off the control panel and install and reassemble. Simply remove a few screws and remove control panel, then pop out the door latch base and pop out the 3 switches…. reassemble and that’s it…I am sure this repair would run 200-300 dollars and you can DIY for about 10 bucks. I have a GE Profile microwave, but many operate the same way…just be sure to put the NO switches top and bottom and the NC switch right above the bottom switch at an angle. Good Luck…. there are many videos about hoe to do on the internet. just be careful if you have to unplug the control panel that you don’t pull the connectors off by the wires…. some have to be pressed from the side to release…. the switches themselves pop out by pushing a small flat bladed screwdriver between the plastic switch holder and grab the old switch and easily pull out. Just take your time. The door latch base with the switches will have 2 screws to remove and then you push up to disengage the plastic lock tabs. Again…. review videos to make sure you understand the process.
DanielBDavis –
One NO switch was defective – didn’t click when pressed. Another thing – might be related to these switches or not – but NC (middle) switch was moving around in the latch assembly. Since it was being pushed out of the way, it didn’t make full contact. Advice – after assembling the switches and installing in the microwave, use tester and check for continuity before plugging in the wires. I secured the switch with a zip-tie and the switch stopped moving, allowing for full press down and click.
Keen Reader –
We had incorrectly been opening the microwave while it is “on.” That fried the switch, twice in a month It is a bit of a pain to take off the door, but these inexpensive replacement switches were exactly what was needed. We now have a note on the danged machine “Turn off before opening!”
Danna K –
We have a Frigidaire microwave that is only 6 or 7 years old. It started turning on when the door was open. Apparently, it’s pretty common for the switches (there are 3 of them) to stop working on any microwave. Instead of trying to figure out which switch was broken, I just ordered all three. Plus, I wouldn’t want to have to dismantle the microwave again if another one broke. It was worth a shot for $10. It’s much cheaper than a new microwave.The “normally closed” switch I received had a red button, whereas the “normally open” switches had black buttons, which made it easy to put them in the right places. It took me a little while to disconnect the wires from my old switches, but it was pretty easy to connect the new ones. It worked perfectly after I changed them.
Amazon Customer –
OEM is always the way to go but I got these for delivery time. Do not go cheap with high voltage appliances though- if in doubt, get OEM from an appliance parts dealer. For these switches, I’m lead to believe that they’re all the same but beware this practice on higher end parts. I’d buy again. 4 of 5 since they’re Chinese parts
Chuck –
They arrived on time. They were a little smaller then the OEM but I was able to secure them with a little electrical tape.
Wolfgang –
I ordered 3 because they could arrive here more quickly. It works perfectly. I used a couple videos on Youtube to learn how to install. Great price and solution. TY!